New cam shaft

[Dunkdafunk]

Replaced the intake camshaft with a new one. Its aftermarket and not an oem. The engine sounds like the tappets are gone, and its temperamental . Does the hydraulic lifters need time to bed in? Do they shift about with a new camshaft? 

The intake specified degree is 28, but actual varies from 38-45 and its had a new timing chain. The idle is kinda rough. Could the hydraulic lifters noise come from an intake air leak?

Air leak code on vag com. No other codes.

[ROH ECHT]

Can you add; why you replaced the intake cam and the exact error code nomenclature, not the description of the code? The description you gave have me leaning toward a vacuum or PCV system leak. But You may receive more help by adding the above which I requested.

[Dunkdafunk]

Replaced due to pump lobe wear. Code was deleted, so description that come up was air leak in intake system. I can confirm there is a leak, the turbo boost is weak so il try and find the leak, report a code and go from there.

Just didnt think a leak could cause 45kw angle and a tapping noise that sounds like the hydraulic lifters. Seems to be the hydraulic lifters thats making the noise. If the hydraulic lifters fail when you change a camshaft, does that mean the camshaft lobes are not design spec? or could the cam cradle be bolted down not hard enough and cause a gap between the lifters? can the lifters pop out of there cradle?

[FJB]

Are you sure you are not one tooth out on the cam chain? The lifters work with oil pressure, they fill with oil and expand, unlikely that changing the camshaft would cause them to fail, perhaps they were already noisy and you didn't notice. When you refitted the cam ladder you should have replaced the bolts and torqued angle to spec, they are one use only. 

[Kee1994]

On my old s3 8p I had the cam chain tensioner changed wasnt timed up right , had rough idle revs kept bouncing on tickover.

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[ROH ECHT]

I also would be inclined to believe the cams are not timed correctly. You may need to have another look at the cam timing. Do you need help with that or are you having a shop do the work?

[Dunkdafunk]

I'm happy with the cam ladder. There was a loose pcv connection and this was the leak.

How would I adjust the timing? I thought the vvt did that? I used the cam lock tool to line up the exhaust and inlet, and just swapped over old for new. Should I have done something else?

Kee 1994, you had tensioner issues? And ur timing was out? I'm assuming you adjusted the timing?

 I am getting g247 fuel pressure sensor malfunction. It idles bad like the timing is out, but I was specific in like for like when swapping over. It's been working great before the new intake, and it had a new timing chain and tensioner. The exhaust cam is original. How would I use the vag com to see if I am one tooth out, angle kw? Static kw? Or what tools could I use? I cant take it to a shop I'd like to do it myself. I've cleaned the cam sensor and earth contact which runs in the same loom as vvt and fuel valve reg.

[ROH ECHT]

One doesn't physically adjust timing. The VVT system does this. What usually happens is someone can misalign the cams when they are working on replacing the timing chain for the cams.

[Dunkdafunk]

Well I'm yet to inspect the hpfp and I am getting fuel codes. Could the hpfp piston have broken? I definitely lined up the cams with the lock tool, and there was a notch on the intake sproket that helped mark the chain. One whole tooth out would have been hard to achieve with the lock tool.

[FJB]

When you have locked the cams you need to put the chain on with the lower side of the chain being taught or the timing will be out. I have seen people make the mistake of the chain being taught on the upper side. It will be easy for you to check if you have the locking tool, remove the valve cover, rotate the engine by hand, and see if the tool will fit, if it fits properly the timing is good.

[Dunkdafunk]

FJB I dont think I checked the tension. In fact it could have been slack at the bottom. Can you just lift off the side cover and top cover, lock the cams and release the chain tension?

[FJB]

If it was slack at the bottom it will likely be out of time. Lock the cams, remove the adjuster housing, push the chain tensioner down and use a small nail or allen key in the hole to hold it down, and see if there is enough slack to move the chain to the correct position. If not you will have to remove the the cam adjuster form the end of the exhaust cam.

[Dunkdafunk]

Will do. I think this has been the problem. I used the marking from the chain, how isit that the tension differs? I work with Motorcross bikes so I've always been used to a tense and slack side. Isit because of the vvt pulley or did I miss a link? If it's been out of cam timing, do I need to check anything that could have broken? Valves etc?

[FJB]

If when you changed the camshaft you marked the chain at both cam sprockets, then transferred the inlet cam mark to you new cam, then lined it up when you put it back together then it wont be out of time. It will only be out of time if you locked the cams with the tool and fitted the chain with the bottom slack. If it has been out of time and only by one tooth you may get away without any damaged. The only way to know for sure is pulling the head. 

[Dunkdafunk]

I'm abit lost.

Stripped down cam ladder and re-done the chain number of links. It's done by 18th and 19th link rather than the tool, which also fits in. It's an after market inlet cam shaft J revision correct part number. My engine is a bwa 2006 but for some reason come with an A revision intake?

It's got 182k miles on.

Worked fine before inlet cam replacement, apart from worn fuel pump lobe because it's a revision.

It runs poor on idle, and jumps between 35-48kw inlet angle, angle doesn't steady on idle. It's got what I think is a valve noise, which sounds like the normal tappet and goes away at 2-3k revs. I'm getting 115psi compression identical across all cylinders. The tappets noise did go away for 10minutes or so driving, then come back and has stayed.

It's got an after market exhaust cam pulley. After market chain and tensioner. Original oem exhaust cam that's got 180k miles on. This set up worked just fine. Now it's got an after market intake cam. could the tolerances be accumulated? Could the vvt solenoid be broken (reads 7ohms) or inactive? Could the hydraulic tappets with a new cam shaft be dry?